Is US nearshoring a thing? What about onshoring? These
topics remain attractive for some fashion companies and an illusion for others.
So, what's real and what's not and do consumers care if a product says 'Made in
USA'?
When looking at
nearshoring, onshoring and Made in USA fashion products it makes sense to start
with imports.
Otexa’s May 2023 US import
statistics are out. When measured by square metre equivalents, imports of
textiles and apparel from the world are down more than 20% for the first five
months of 2023 compared to the same period in 2022. Interestingly, imports from
China, India, Vietnam, and Bangladesh have declined by about 30%. Imports from
Turkey are down more than 40%. Imports from the Western Hemisphere are up 5% –
huh? How can that be?
For sure, the US market is in
the dumps. Imports are down virtually everywhere, mostly because there’s weak
demand. This isn’t new; the industry has dealt with this reality for quite a
while. But what is new is that nearshoring is showing signs of life. In
particular, imports from Mexico are up 85%; USMCA (NAFTA v 2.0) is up 67%
percent. Yes, imports from CAFTA-DR are down 19%, but that compares to far
steeper declines from other major suppliers and is in line with the aggregate
global trend. Curiously, imports from Canada are even with last year.
All of this leaves me
wondering about the state of nearshoring and the Made in USA movement. Has
there been a realignment of sourcing closer to home? Does where a fabric or
garment is made matter? Answering that question depends upon whom you ask. Talk
to an environmentalist, and the answer will be an enthusiastic “Yes!” And
they’ll also ask how it is made and with what materials. In turn, ask a
sourcing person, and the question may be answered with: “It depends – what’s
the cost?”
However, US consumer attitudes
are more nuanced. Socioeconomic factors influence consumer purchasing
decisions, while anxiety about the future, global conflicts (like Ukraine), and
pervasive uncertainty weigh on consumer willingness to buy stuff. It’s
complicated. And when guessing what our industry’s prospects will be in a
month, six months, a year, or five years, assessing consumer attitudes become
critical. After all, consumers are the ultimate customer.
Nevertheless, according to one
research firm, consumers have clarified their intentions. “US consumers’ demand
for ‘Made in America’ products is robust,” says Morning Consult, a nonpartisan
polling and research firm based in Washington, DC, in its newly published ‘Made
in America’ survey.
In fact, a recent article in
the New York Times
cited the survey in the context of a fast-selling $60 Made in USA tshirt from
American Giant, the San Francisco-based clothing company. American Giant’s
success may not be a one-off thing but rather part of a broader pattern of
consumer behaviour. “65% of US adults said they intentionally bought ‘Made in
America’ products over the past year. That’s about the same rate of US adults
who said they had those intentions last year,” said the New York Times referring to the Morning
Consult survey.
Morning Consult’s survey
offers insight into macro-forces affecting consumer preferences and sheds light
on demographic trends and political characteristics. Many such consumer studies
focus on economic factors – such as inflation, job security, etc. But with this
survey, preferences by political party (Republican, Democrat, Independent) are
also considered. Indeed, such assessments are not without pitfalls; for
instance, it will be interesting to see if a survey such as this makes its way
into the mudslinging of the 2024 election. Political concerns notwithstanding,
the survey identifies gender and generational attitudes toward “Made in
America” and price sensitivity.
Some of Morning Consult’s
findings are consistent with other research surveys, but some are new – and are
quite pointed. Let’s look at some of the highlights from the executive summary
of the “Made in America” survey:
1. US
consumers look for Made in USA
About three-quarters of US
consumers say they intentionally looked for “Made in America” products, with
republicans and baby boomers more inclined to search for domestically-made
products than democrats and younger generations.
2. Recent
economic troubles have not affected consumer attitudes toward Made in America
Although domestically-made
products may cost more, surveyed consumers said they continue to search for
them over foreign-made merchandise. In fact, consumer interest in Made in America
products has remained steady from 2022 to now despite higher inflation and
rising interest rates squeezing consumer wallets.
3. Willing
to pay more – but only up to a point
Consumers said they are
willing to pay more for domestically-made products, but only to a certain
degree. Explained Morning Consult, “Nearly half of US adults say they would pay
more for ‘Made in USA’ goods. But price hesitancy will constrain companies’
ability to upcharge: Among US consumers who said they would pay more, a
majority are unwilling to pay above 10% extra for ‘Made in America’ goods
relative to foreign-made equivalents.”
4. Nationalism
plays a role for some consumers
For some consumers, purchasing
decisions favouring “Made in America” reflect patriotic sentiments. Morning
Consult says: “Marketing campaigns that prime nationalist sentiment —
specifically by emphasising how “Made in America” supply chains can create and
protect US jobs — will most help win over consumers.” The survey indicated that
nationalism plays a greater role with republicans and baby boomers than
democrats and gen z adults.
5. Reshoring
out of China will yield large reputational gains for US multinationals
Surveyed consumers favourably
view US multinational companies that reshore production that replaces Chinese
labour and/or parts in their supply chains with domestic inputs. “Seven in 10
US adults said they hold favourable views of US companies that incorporate
domestic labour and parts into their supply chains, compared with just 29% who
said they hold favourable views of those using only Chinese inputs,” reports
Morning Consult.
6. US
companies that reshore have a competitive edge relative to foreign ones that
onshore
According to the survey,
“larger shares of US consumers are willing to pay more for reshored goods
produced by US companies compared with onshored goods produced by foreign
ones.”
7. Foreign
multinationals hailing from US allies and ‘friendly’ countries have a leg up
compared with others
Morning Consult explains:
“Among foreign multinationals, those hailing from US allies and ‘friendly’
nations have a better chance of seizing market share. Russian and Chinese
companies are highly disadvantaged by these geopolitical dynamics and will struggle
to gain traction.”
“Men, baby boomers,
republicans and consumers who are proud to live in the United States offer
ready-made markets,” concludes Morning Consult. This is not to say that other
market segments are not interested in “Made in USA.” After all, patriotic
sentiments transcend political affiliation, gender, and demography only that
certain market segments will be innately more receptive to that message than
others. Moreover, job creation remains front of mind for most consumers, young
or old, Republican or Democrat. “Made in America” taps into consumer sentiment
supporting greater domestic employment.
Even so, this needs to be
qualified. Let’s get real here: price sensitivity has to be considered. There
is a limit to what consumers are willing to pay regardless of where a product
is made. Many surveys have accurately reported consumer interest in buying
domestically-made products, only to discover that such intentions dissipate
once consumers enter a store and focus solely on price. It’s a conundrum for
advocates of “Made in America.”
This leaves us where we began:
US apparel imports slumped again in May, a clear sign that the market remains
soft. But for one company with an appealing message, selling tshirts with an “American
Made” logo, knitted with American-made textiles, and sewn in the US, seems to
be bucking the trend. Of course, the big question is if the “Made in America”
phenomenon is temporary or the beginning of something more permanent.