Sri Lanka’s apparel sector will
suffer heavy economic as well as "social and human" costs as a result
of being stripped of the EU’s Generalised Scheme of Preference (GSP) trade
benefits, says its representative trade body.
During
2020, the EU accounted for nearly a quarter of Sri Lanka’s total earning
exports under the GSP – equivalent to roughly 3.2% of Sri Lanka’s entire Gross
Domestic Product (GDP) for 2020.
In July, the EU warned of plans to pull the
country’s access to the GSP on concerns over human rights violations.
The Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) – the apex
body representing Sri Lanka’s apparel sector says while there has been much
speculation around the potential cost of losing GSP to the EU, many such
analyses have significantly under-estimated the potential losses, often failing
to account for vital factors.
JAAF points to the EU being a key market
for other Sri Lankan products including plastic and rubber, vegetable products,
machinery and appliances, food, beverages and tobacco adding the loss of the
GSP would have a heavy economic impact.
Citing academic studies done into the loss of the GSP
during 2010, JAAF says poverty and inequality increased during the time.
“Opportunity costs are another consideration.
Available data overwhelmingly indicates that the GSP scheme is beneficial to
countries that are eligible for these concessions. From 2011 to 2017, exports
to the EU by GSP beneficiaries had increased by 82%. In Sri Lanka’s case, much
of the growth that enabled Sri Lanka’s apparel industry to achieve export
earnings of more $5.3bn prior to the pandemic in 2019 is attributed to the EU,”
says JAAF chairman, A Sukumaran.
“It’s also important to note that Sri Lanka’s
competitors, such as Bangladesh for instance, will continue to enjoy these
privileges.”
Sukumaran also notes that apparel brands and buyers
now strongly prefer end-to-end solutions providers and that the GSP loss would
increase the apparel cost for EU buyers by around 9.5% – the loss of market
share will not be limited to products that receive GSP+ concessions, he says.
“Buyers could shift en masse to Sri Lanka’s
competitors, resulting in trade shifts which would be further detrimental to
the interests of our country.”
There are also concerns of the parallels
between the conditions under which tariff concessions are provided to Sri Lanka
via EU’s GSP+ and other similar schemes which Sri Lanka currently benefits
from. “If Sri Lanka were to lose GSP+ to the EU, there is
high probability of trade concessions to the UK and US coming under review,” he
says. “These markets are also vital markets for Sri Lanka’s exports – with US
and UK collectively accounting for more than one third (34%) of Sri Lanka’s
national exports in 2020. “The potential loss of the EU’s GSP+ would have
far-reaching adverse impacts on many fronts that could trickle down to all
sectors of the economy. Export industries and the country’s economy as a whole
have taken a heavy blow from the pandemic. The apparel sector too was
significantly impacted and is still grappling with many economic shocks. These
include order cancellations and reductions, drop in margins, having to provide
longer credit periods to buyers, supply chain disruptions and having to work
with reduced staff, in adhering to safety protocols. “Given these challenges, the need for GSP+ is perhaps
greater than ever. In this regard, we appreciate the government demonstrating
its clear commitment to retaining it. We are optimistic and hopeful that any
concerns can be ironed out through constructive engagement.” But, he says, Sri Lanka’s apparel industry is not
entirely reliant on GSP+ concessions indefinitely in the medium to long-term. “We have put in place concerted initiatives to enhance
the sector’s competitiveness. This includes developing strategic (as opposed to
transactional) relationships with buyers, upgrading research and development
capabilities and increasing innovation, developing branded products and efforts
to diversify export markets. These are not mere claims by the sector and have
been recognised by buyers and even in publications of the World Bank. “Retaining our existing preferential trade concessions
together with the initiatives underway to enhance the industry’s
competitiveness will enable Sri Lanka’s apparel industry to achieve its goal of
becoming an $8bn export earner by 2026. This will significantly increase our
contribution to the domestic economy in terms of export earnings, employment,
technology infusion and investment. “The industry is fully-committed to this task but
requires sufficient stability, especially protection from further economic
shocks at present, to achieve this goal.” By Just Style