Fast
fashion is also a business model that presupposes sustained economic growth
supported by ever-growing consumer demand for stuff. Indeed, suppose consumers
pull back on their spending. In that case, economies won’t do well – lessening
the churn necessary for fast fashion suppliers to thrive.
Having said that, it’s a no-brainer that if economic
growth suffers, so too will sales of non-essential consumer goods, like
clothing – fast-fashion or not. Yet, it is fast fashion that requires an extra
degree of churn to remain successful. Eliminate the churn in the stores and
fast fashion suffocates.
So how has global growth been doing? Although
aggregate global economic growth has improved since 2020, the recovery has been
uneven, with some countries doing better than others. Don’t take my word for
it. Here’s the latest from the International Monetary Fund (IMF) in their
latest World Economic Outlook Report :
“Global recovery continues, but the momentum has weakened and uncertainty has
increased.”
Not jolly. The IMF elaborates further:
“The global economic recovery is continuing, even as the pandemic resurges. The
fault lines opened up by Covid-19 are looking more persistent—near-term
divergences are expected to leave lasting imprints on medium-term performance.”
And there’s more. “The global economy is projected to
grow 5.9% in 2021 and 4.9% in 2022. The rapid spread of Delta and the threat of
new variants have increased uncertainty about how quickly the pandemic can be
overcome. Policy choices have become more difficult, with limited room to
manoeuvre,” the IMF concludes.
In short, this is economics-speak for “buckle up
everyone and get ready for air turbulence.”
And then there’s the most recent news from the United
States, the largest fast-fashion consumer. “Real gross domestic product (GDP)
increased at an annual rate of 2.0% in the third quarter of 2021, following an
increase of 6.7% in the second quarter. The deceleration in real GDP in
the third quarter was led by a slowdown in consumer spending,” reported the Bureau of Economic Analysis .
What are the implications of slowing economic growth
on fast fashion?
For companies with business models based upon consumer
churn at the stores while supporting long and elaborate supply chains
worldwide, slowing economic growth is not a welcome development. Moreover,
governments worldwide have already spent inordinate resources to prop up
economies during the pandemic – meaning they printed a lot of money.
It’s also worth pointing out that whatever top-line
growth the world has witnessed in 2021, that’s compared to the lockdown-induced
declines of 2020. So, in a sense, to compare 2021 to just 2020 doesn’t tell us
much. An economic rebound isn’t really all that surprising. What’s more
meaningful is how 2021 growth stacked against longer-term trends.
Curiously,
the economic growth rate in many countries had slowed in recent years,
regardless of the pandemic, which simply knocked the stool from under the
chair. So governments stepped in to repair the economic chair. And to do so,
they stimulated their economies, particularly in developed countries, by
printing money, and lots of it.
But here’s the rub. Printing so much money may also
mean that what appeared to be temporary inflation may become longer-lasting
than economists previously thought.
Grim assessments for fast fashion growth
Based on the IMF’s assessment, the global economy is
stalled with medium-term implications for slower growth. And suppose
governments feel compelled to gear up those printing presses yet again to
stimulate their economies? In that case, we may find ourselves entering an
unavoidable period of higher inflation – along with uncertain economic growth.
Because, after all, higher inflation typically results in lower consumer
consumption. And a self-induced period of economic malaise descends on the
planet.
I know all of this is a little wonky, but here’s the
point: If growth slows globally, how does fast fashion survive? After all,
isn’t fast fashion predicated on accelerated growth? Interesting questions.
But here’s another one: Does sustainability
self-correct if fast fashion fails due to lack of growth? After all, perhaps
there’s a silver lining to all this doom and gloom lurking beneath the surface.
It’s funny how markets can, at times, self-correct imbalances.
Is the fast fashion industry ‘using’ NGOs?
For years companies – especially fast-fashion
companies – have lathered up sustainability initiative after sustainability
initiative as part of their marketing stories in a poorly veiled attempt to
hide what exists in plain sight. Is a 20,000-mile supply chain sustainable? Not
really. Will joining the new NGO flavour of the month fix that? No. The goals
of meeting such and such an objective by 2030 sure sound good in press releases
and marketing presentations but don’t amount to any real progress.
It’s no wonder that so many people are frustrated by
the same old sustainability claims and far-off goals. It’s all a pile of
excrement, plain and simple. After all, investments made around the world
decades ago must be protected. And if all it takes is some loose marketing to
protect those investments, then many companies will.
The real tragedy is with the NGOs. It may sound harsh,
but NGOs working in our industry are being used. So many people are embarking
on missions so deeply felt and believed all in the name of fixing a broken
world, while in reality reduced to acting as shills for corporate interests.
And they may know that they need the financial lifelines provided by the very
corporate interests they may disdain to survive. Catch-22.
Self-correcting markets?
We’re back from where we began: slowing economic
growth. But, as we’ve established, growth is the lifeline for fast fashion.
Pull that out from under so many brands, and we’re left with a desiccated
carcass. But that’s the force of the markets at work. It’s impossible to avoid.
Here’s an example of the market at work: Higher cotton
prices. To speak with a brand, one would think that the world’s cotton farmers
just declared war on them. But the reality is anything but that. The truth is
that cotton prices provide the excuse for many brands to raise their prices and
protect their holy margins. Damn the farmers.
The only problem is that higher costs arising from
inflation for apparel brands emanate from their troubles with shipping lines
and port delays. And also, an overabundance of money in the economic system.
Many people are flush and don’t feel as financially constrained as they were
before the pandemic, so they’re willing to spend.
Flash! In an ironic turn of events, many companies
can’t import their goods into developed countries in time to cash in on that
newfound wealth. I’m stunned, shocked. Well, what do you know? Maybe the old
model of global sourcing is broken. Customers may decide after all that they
don’t need so many clothes. And that’s the real threat to any fast-fashion
brand. They’re not needed anymore.
Guess what? Maybe the planet will be better for it. By Just Style