There are three key trends that could impact fashion
sustainability compliance over the next year, according to market independent
business sustainability rating company EcoVadis.
During the business sustainability fireside chat at Sourcemap’s Supply Chain Transparency Conference 2023, EcoVadis corporate development advisor Victoria Chartier revealed there are three key market-defining trends that will need to be looked at more closely in 2024.
She says the the three key are
trends are:
Climate crisis
Chartier suggests when it
comes to the climate crisis, it’s about looking at how companies are
“navigating the collaboration” that is required to respond to this challenge.
For the majority of companies, their emissions primarily come from Scope 3
emissions, which she notes is in their supply chain.
However, she says the problem
for the most part lies with the fact small companies within the supply chain do
not have the capacity to measure the carbon footprint, let alone define
effective climate strategies.
For this reason she believes
solving the puzzle, as she calls it, is down to collaboration.
Sustainability
regulations
In terms of the rise in
sustainability regulations Chartier notes a change in direction, scale and
intensity of the regulations.
With the
influx of sustainability legislation ranging from Corporate
Sustainability Due Diligence – CSDDD and the EU Strategy
for Sustainable and Circular Textiles to green claims,
it is important to discuss how prepared the industry is for the significant
changes that lie ahead.
She explains: “We’ve counted
that the number of corporate due diligence regulations has approximately
doubled in the last five years. And also the requirements are more robust.
There’s a shift from disclosure only to more granular requirements. And
overall, we’re shifting from voluntary to mandatory reporting.”
For instance, she says in
Germany and Norway there are new enforcement agencies responsible for
monitoring a company’s compliance. This is new for companies who were mostly
expected to be transparent and disclose their own information, but that’s not
the case now with the new processes and ways of working to follow.
Hyper-digitalisation
in business
Finally, she adds the trend
for hyper-digitalisation is cutting across all areas of business. She says it’s
important to mention Artificial Intelligence (AI), as there’s so much to say
about how that will significantly affect the way businesses as a whole operate.
Chartier also points out it can
be looked at through the lens of helping to solve sustainability-related
issues: “We think it will have all sorts of implications about quality and
access to sustainability data, especially when you combine it with regulations
and how that can be both an opportunity and a challenge for business.”
The session’s moderator Alex
Foote, who is the customer success associate at supply chain transparency and
traceability solution company and conference host Sourcemap, highlights
sustainability and compliance were previously two separate priorities. But this
has evolved over the few years.
Chartier agrees and sees
compliance becoming more involved in the sustainability topic and contributing
more to the conversation, however she still thinks it’s early days.
She explains: “What we’re
seeing is more cross-functional collaboration, but not so much ownership.”
She adds: “We need to ask
ourselves – what value can compliance bring to the topic and the challenges
we’re trying to solve?”
At the same time she believes
compliance can be a big driver for internal enforcement in a business as it can
shift the perception from “nice to have” to “a business essential or “best
practice in the market”. This in turn can help businesses deliver customer
value and move towards achieving our desired outcomes.
However, Chartier warns of the
limitations of a compliance-driven approach to sustainability as she says it
can in some cases lead to a more “tick the box” approach.
“Businesses and brands are
finding it tricky to navigate the industry with the number of regulations
coming,” says Chartier. She highlights that the trickiest part is the
uncertainty on “where we will land with some of these key regulations”.
The silver lining, as she
notes, is the “common architecture.” To put it simply, there are some common
principles based on some classic regulatory frameworks like the OECD frameworks
or the United Nations guiding principles on human rights.
She says businesses will have
worked around these in the past and the foundation of “knowing” or having
worked based on a similar model acts as a respite between the influx of new
regulations.
Foote shares the same view and
adds: “Finding the commonality of these regulations and frameworks is often key
to helping your customers, it can be overwhelming with so many different
regulations and different standards going on.”
By Just Style