The EU has agreed a new set of rules that will require
EU and non-EU textile and apparel companies to safeguard human rights and the
environment within their policies and risk management systems or risk financial
penalties.
The EU Parliament and council negotiators have informally agreed on new legislation for corporate sustainability due diligence that will apply to all big companies as well as smaller companies deemed to be in high-risk sectors, such as the textile and apparel sector.
Big companies are defined as EU companies
and parent companies with over 500 employees and a worldwide turnover higher
than €150m ($164.97m).
For the textile and apparel sector it also
applies to EU and non-EU companies with over 250 employees and a turnover of
more than €40m if at least €20m is generated from the manufacture and wholesale
trade of textiles, clothing and footwear. Plus, these rules will apply to
non-EU companies and parent companies with equivalent turnover in the EU.
The agreed draft law still requires formal
approval by the Legal Affairs Committee and the European Parliament
as a whole, as well as by the Council (EU governments) before it can become
enforced.
Once it is formally approved, the
obligations will require companies to mitigate their negative impact on human
rights and the environment, including child labour, slavery, labour
exploitation, pollution, deforestation, excessive water consumption or damage
to ecosystems.
Companies will be required to integrate “due
diligence” into their policies and risk-management systems which includes
descriptions of their approach, processes and code of conduct. It will also be
mandatory for firms to adopt a plan ensuring their business model aligns with
the goal of limiting global warming to 1.5°C.
Companies will have to identify, assess,
prevent, mitigate, bring to an end to and remedy their negative impact and that
of their upstream and downstream partners, including production, supply,
transport and storage, design and distribution on people and the planet.
To do so, they will be required to make
investments, seek contractual assurances from the partners, improve their
business plan or provide support to their partners from small and medium-sized
enterprises.
Members of the European Parliament (MEPs)
have stipulated that the management of companies with over 1,000 employees will
receive financial benefits for implementing the plan.
Lead MEP Lara Wolters said: “This law
is a historic breakthrough. Companies are now responsible for potential abuses
in their value chain, 10 years after the Rana Plaza tragedy. Let this deal be a
tribute to the victims of that disaster, and a starting point for shaping the
economy of the future – one that puts the wellbeing of people and the planet
before profits and short-termism. I am very grateful to those who joined me in
the fight for this law. It ensures honest businesses do not have to participate
in the race against cowboy companies.”
MEPs explained that companies will have to
“meaningfully engage” with those impacted by their actions, introduce a
complaints mechanism, communicate on their due diligence policies and regularly
monitor its effectiveness.
Additionally, EU governments will be
required to create practical portals, dedicated to companies’ due diligence
obligations, that will provide information on content and criteria, related
Commission guidance and information for stakeholders.
According to the new rules, EU countries
will appoint supervisory authorities to ensure firms adhere to their new
obligations.
These authorities operating within the
European Network of Supervisory Authorities, can exchange best practices;
collaborate at the EU level; conduct inspections and investigations; and impose
penalties, including fines of up to 5% of a company’s net worldwide turnover as
well as the public “naming and shaming” of non-compliant firms.
Companies will be liable for breaching due
diligence obligations, which means victims will have the right to compensation
for damages. To motivate companies, MEPs said compliance with due diligence
obligations can be used as part of the award criteria for public and concession
contracts.
The Commission proposal was initially
presented on 23 February 2022, following which the
Federation of the European Sporting Goods Industry (FESI) and the European
Environmental Bureau (EEB) called for further improvement by incorporating a
set of corporate accountability amendments to safeguard human rights and
environmental impact.