A new study suggests the US adaptive clothing market
has significant growth potential but fashion retailers could make it more
affordable to people with disabilities by using the import duty-free tariffs
available.
December 15, 2023
One
in four US consumers have experienced at least one type of disability,
indicating significant growth potential for the adaptive clothing market,
according to the authors of a recent study published in the International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology
and Education Journal.
Hannah Laurits and Sheng Lu from the
Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware
examined US fashion retailers’ assortment and pricing strategies for adaptive
clothing and found five missed opportunities within this lucrative space.
After examining the information on US
retailers’ websites for adaptive clothing products for sale in the US from
January 2018 to December 2022, the authors found a statistically higher price
for adaptive clothing compared to non-adaptive equivalents.
Laurits and Lu noted “adaptive clothing’s
higher production costs could be a critical contributing factor”.
For example, adaptive clothing often
involves a more complex product development process such as talking with end
users to determine the clothing’s most appropriate and essential functions,
which could result in extra design time and labour costs.
Plus, designing adaptive clothing could
require additional tests for technical quality, product reliability, and more
time spent on modification compared to creating non-adaptive equivalents.
Adaptive clothing can also need specialised
textile materials and accessories, such as flexible magnetic fasteners, which
could increase production costs.
However, the authors pointed out there is a
disconnect between the higher production costs and the fact consumers with
disabilities “had more limited purchasing power and were more likely to
struggle financially than those without disabilities within the US”.
The authors explained: “Considering the
typically lower income and higher living expenses of people with disabilities
(PWD), it is imperative for US retailers to actively seek solutions that make
adaptive clothing more financially attainable for this demographic.”
One solution offered within the study to
combat this is to leverage the import duty-free tariffs available within the US
for adaptive clothing.
“In US trade law, products qualified for the
HS code 9817.00.96 (articles specially designed or adapted for the use or
benefit of the blind or other physically or mentally handicapped persons) could
enjoy. However, as adaptive clothing is often purposefully designed to “look
similar” to regular clothing, it has been challenging for retailers to take
advantage of the trade provision,” stated Laurits and Lu.
For this reason, the authors suggest more
dialogues between retailers and policymakers could be warranted.
The authors found US retailers adopted what
they described as “unique product assortment strategies for adaptive clothing”
compared to non-adaptive ones.
For example, 70% of adaptive clothing
featured “more boring patterns” compared to non-adaptive equivalents, which
were available in a wide variety of design choices.
Laurits and Lu believe this made adaptive
clothing look less stylish overall and reflected a focus on functionality over
aesthetics.
Plus, the adaptive clothing was only
available in certain categories such as tops and bottoms and were lacking in
dresses and outerwear.
“The absence of adaptive clothing in dresses
and outerwear highlights that PWD consumers still face limited choices for
apparel items that can support their full participation in society and enable
them to enjoy various social activities,” said the study authors.
Finally, the study reported US retailers
focus on children and adolescents for adaptive clothing. The authors explained
previous studies proposed the perceived substantial benefits of providing
adaptive clothing to children and adolescents with disabilities were among the
crucial factors driving the availability of adaptive products for this
demographic group.