Multiple experts speaking at the World Fashion
Convention echoed the same key fashion sourcing regions and countries to watch
in 2024 based on the diversity, agility and transparency criteria that remain
high on fashion sourcing executives' priority lists.
December 14, 2023
This
year is coming to an end filled with uncertainty but there are still rays of
hope in terms of new fashion sourcing countries to watch in 2024.
Fashion sourcing executives preparing
strategies for 2024 have a lot to navigate. There are wars in the
Middle East and Eastern Europe as well as geopolitical tensions
between the US and China. There are growing concerns over climate change
following 2023’s
record-breaking temperatures and natural
disasters in key fashion sourcing destinations, plus high inflation
continuing to impact consumer spending.
Expert panellists at the International
Apparel Federation and Sewn Products Equipment & Suppliers of the Americas
(SPESA) World Fashion
Convention believe there are still some emerging destinations that
can tick off the requirements of flexibility and geopolitical stability while
being able to offer transparency and potentially affordability.
Jennifer Knight, who is deputy assistant
secretary for textiles, consumer goods, materials industries, critical minerals
and metals industry and analysis at the US Department of Commerce kicks things
off by putting the northern triangle of Guatemala, Honduras and El Salvador
into the ring. She states they have all established themselves as key players
for the US apparel industry.
Alejandro Ceballos, vice president of
Vestex, the apparel and textile association of Guatemala, agrees and shares
Central America is growing with investments being made by Korean companies
wishing to enter the region.
He explains Central America can bring yarn
from the US as part of the yarn forward rule in the US’s Dominican
Republic–Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR), which is ideal for
transparency. Plus, he notes location-wise it’s the closest region to the US
bar Mexico, which gives it the flexibility advantage.
Karin De León from the Central American and
Dominican Republic Council (CECATEC-RD) adds that in the next five years she
can see a “very strong” fashion sourcing region in Central America.
Meanwhile, chairman of fashion manufacturer
GK Global, Yusuf Amdani, cites in his keynote speech that Central America will
remain his manufacturing destination of choice for a time to come. He explains
he started his fashion manufacturing business in Honduras because it had passed
a free zone law that allowed him to build without needing permission so it gave
him an easy way to start his operation.
However, he emphasises that Central America
has changed a lot since then and has better infrastructure and talent
available.
Ceballos highlights that supply chains today
can move very fast in Central America with Guatemala being able to “do things
in seven days”.
His fashion sourcing summary of Central
America is as follows: “If you want lower price targets you can use the fabric
from Guatemala because it has lower costs in power and electricity and the
lowest rates in terms of labour. El Salavdor is very good in sportswear and
Honduras is getting big investments from big companies.”
Apparel manufacturer DTRT Apparel Group,
which stands for Do The Right Thing is committed to sustainable and ethical
fashion manufacturing and sees great potential in the emerging fashion sourcing
country of Ghana in West Africa. Co-founder and co-CEO Marc Hansult explains
his company has been in Ghana for almost a decade and it was the first investor
setting up a larger scale operation for export in the country.
He shares: “We built our operation from
scratch and we did so with the belief that West Africa and Ghana would be
attractive for future investments and today the region is getting a lot of
interest.”
From a long-term perspective he believes
investment is going to happen and DTRT Apparel is going to be part of it,
adding: “Beyond us there’s a lot of interest. West Africa brings a very unique
opportunity to build a vertical infrastructure and a circular ecosystem.”
He admits the region is still in the early
stages of development but there’s a lot of optimism as Africa has the
opportunity to capture some of the market share from China given its proximity
to both Europe and the US.
He continues that speed to market doesn’t
have to mean fast fashion: “We felt West Africa due to geographical advantages
would have cost competitiveness without the typical perception of Africa having
longer lead times. We decided Ghana was the best of both worlds in that sense.”
On the other side of the continent in East
Africa, Jessica Rainey has a consulting company based in Nairobi, Kenya called
Mercantilia Consulting that is focused on sourcing and product development.
She observes the US’s trade preference
scheme in the region called the Africa Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) has
enabled smaller brands to get the trickle down economic success of the larger
ones.
She also believes there’s a strong argument
for Made in Africa and she’s seeing success from it.
Plus, she shares: “We started promoting slow
fashion and 80% of our product is handmade in Ethiopia. We overhauled our
calendar over the past year and looked at how to structure that to make it
work.”
She admits there are logistical challenges
in Africa that China doesn’t have, plus Ethiopia being removed from AGOA has
had a huge impact on manufacturing in the country: “The duty for our product
rose from 8% to 16% – you’re not talking about 10 or 20 cents you’re talking
about $15-$20 and you can’t pass that on to the factory.”
But Hanult points out that by 2040 20% of
the world’s population will be in Africa so it does remain what he calls a
“tremendous opportunity”. He’s adamant that beyond the third country fabric
model it has the potential for vertical ecosystems with greener and lower
impact technologies with DTRT Apparel investing in a synthetics-focused textile
mill.
As SPESA president Michael McDonald
concludes opportunity comes from weakness so “if there are any weaknesses in
the current supply chain – that’s where the opportunity lies”.