Experts from across the fashion supply chain share
their predictions for 2024 as the sector navigates ongoing geopolitical and
environmental concerns alongside unexpected twists and turns.
As we head towards 2024 and share expert predictions, there is no doubt that 2023 has been another challenging year for fashion sourcing. The world seemed to be ready to get back on its feet post-pandemic, however the ongoing impact of high inflation led to increased production costs and reduced consumer spend.
After a few strong years during the
pandemic, e-commerce has started to stumble as many consumers decided to return
to stores.
The ongoing conflicts in Ukraine and the
Middle East continue to create challenges for global brands, as supply chains
are disrupted and political uncertainty threatens an already challenged
economy. Meanwhile, a growing number of countries are turning to legislation to
hit climate targets and address growing concerns about labour rights.
Following Just Style’s analysis of the key
challenges and opportunities to watch out for in 2024, we’ve asked
supply chain experts to share their predictions for the next 12 months and how
best to prepare for what lies ahead.
Lu, associate professor at the Department of
Fashion and Apparel Studies at the University of Delaware says apparel sourcing
is never about abrupt changes. However, fashion companies’ sourcing practices
will gradually shift in 2024, in response to the evolving business environment.
He adds: “Besides conventional sourcing
factors like costs, speed-to-market and compliance, fashion companies will
increasingly emphasise flexibility and agility in vendor selection.
“One driving factor is economic uncertainty.
For example, the World Bank and International Monetary Fund, estimate that the
world economy will maintain slow growth of around 2.6-3% in 2024. However,
consumer demand for clothing could perform much better than expected.
“Companies need to be ready for all
occasions. Likewise, geopolitical tensions, such as the Russia-Ukraine war to
the US-China decoupling and the military conflict in the Middle East, could
cause severe supply chain disruptions anytime and anywhere.
“Fashion companies need to rely on a more
flexible and agile supply chain to address market uncertainties and mitigate
unpredictable sourcing risks.
“It will be interesting to see to what
extent fashion companies will further reduce their exposure to China. On the
one hand, it is no surprise that companies are reducing finished garment
sourcing from China as much as possible. However, fashion companies also admit
it is difficult to find practical alternatives in the short to medium term.
“Meanwhile, investments from China are
flowing into regions considered to be alternative sourcing destination, such as
the rest of Asia and Central America. These new investments could complicate
the efforts to limit exposure to China and potentially strengthen, not weaken,
China’s position in the apparel supply chain.
“Regulations could affect fashion companies’
sourcing practices in 2024, particularly in sustainability-related areas.
Fashion companies already have to deal with increasingly complex legal
requirements to achieve sustainability – such as the enforcement of the Uyghur
Forced Labour Prevention Act’s impact on recycled cotton. More than ever,
fashion companies’ sourcing and legal sustainability teams may need to work
even more closely to ensure that ‘sustainable apparel’ is available to
consumers.”
Cowley, managing director at Accenture’s UK
retail industry practice notes it’s important that apparel firms continue to
look at diversifying their supplier base but work towards a more focused
supplier portfolio.
She explains: “China remains one of the
biggest importers, but Bangladesh, India, Cambodia and Sri Lanka are increasing
their share, as well as nearer shore alternatives in Eastern Europe and Africa.
“Ongoing tensions mean apparel retailers
should have the ability to run scenarios and respond to rapid changes. As well
as diversifying their supply chains, fashion retailers will need to continue to
respond to the need for more agility in newness, while building their
long-standing, traditional relationships for items that form part of their
continuous assortment.
“Outside of geopolitical changes, apparel
firms must continue to embrace sustainability in their sourcing strategy. More
than ever, companies are being tasked with reporting on sustainability KPIs
with new regulatory and reporting requirements coming into effect.
“If they are to remain competitive and
resilient in 2024 and beyond, apparel companies and suppliers must have an
ongoing and open dialogue. This transparency is fundamental to building loyal
foundations for successful partnerships.
Szeto, executive chairman at Lever Style
highlights that an increasingly unpredictable world means brands need to keep
their inventory lean to adapt to fickle consumer demand.
He says: “It calls for supply chains that
can flexibly accommodate low volume production for test orders, quick response
for immediate replenishment and the ability to easily change countries of
origin to address shifting geopolitics.
“The days of chasing the lowest Free on
Board (FOB) cost and putting up with long lead times and large minimum order
quantities (MOQs) are over.”
Willschütz, COO and co-founder at DMIx by
ColorDigital GmbH believes the 2024 apparel sourcing landscape is set to be
defined by digital transformation, sustainability imperatives and resilient
supply chains.
He states: “In the wake of the pandemic,
embracing digital platforms that facilitate seamless collaboration and
production optimisation will all be crucial.
“Competitiveness will hinge on the
integration of digital product creation (DPC) tools. Transitioning to digital
material handling and 3D design will enable firms to shorten time-to-market,
slash costs and quickly adapt to shifting consumer demands. A particularly
accessible opportunity lies in digital colour communication and quality
management, where established workflows and standard offer significant cost and
time benefits.
“Global crises and their socio-economic
impacts, balancing sustainability with quality and market unpredictability are
pressing concerns. Keeping abreast of consumer trends towards ethical fashion,
tech innovations and the geopolitical landscape is critical.
“Apparel firms must prioritise flexible
sourcing, predictive analytics and strong, respectful supplier partnerships.
Cultivating a culture that swiftly and efficiently adopts technology, while
aligning with industry standards is non-negotiable.
“By 2024, the frontrunners will be those
with data-driven, transparent supply chains and a mastery of tech to boose
efficiency and sustainability. The ability to nimbly respond to consumer trends
will further define success. Conversely, those resistant to the urgency of
digital and sustainable shifts in the apparel industry will lag behind.”
Colarossi, vice-president, innovation,
product line management and sustainability, apparel solutions at Avery Dennison
explains the pandemic and the subsequent supply chain disruptions have forced a
re-evaluation of the conventional notion of “global supply chains”.
He points out: “Faced with regional tensions
and uncertainties, there’s a discernible shift towards regional supply chains
that goes beyond an immediate response to challenges and signifies a broader
restructuring driven by the need for resilience in the wake of unforeseen
global events.
“The trend for transparency will only
accelerate, driven not only by the evolving landscape of customs regulations,
but also new legislation, digital product passports and the rising expectations
of consumers. The shift is not merely a trend, but represents a fundamental
change in the way businesses operate, aligning with an increasingly ethical and
environmentally-conscious consumer base.
“Businesses that proactively adapt to these
trends are likely to thrive in this evolving landscape, where resilience,
adaptability and transparency emerge as defining factors in the success of
global players.”
Following discussions with sourcing
executives in the US, Europe and Asia, Horwitch, who is chief of supply chain
and sustainability strategy at Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services, does
not believe there will be any significant shifts in the sourcing landscape in
2024.
He says: “Based on movement away from China,
regional nearshoring will continue, especially in India – for both domestic and
exports. This does not mean 2024 will be a quiet year. In fact, 2024 will be as
challenging than previous years, if not more so.”
Although often not the best strategy,
adverse market conditions will drive some brands and retailers to increase
their share of sourcing from countries with the lowest wages, argues Crietee,
secretary general at International Apparel Federation (IAF).
He adds: “On the other hand, the need for
shorter lead times will drive sourcing towards countries closer to the world’s
major markets.
“Uzbekistan will grow from its strong raw
materials base and opportunities in West Africa will be further developed. But
generally, the appetite for new entrants to the global production systems is
limited.
“In 2024, the pivotal role of garment
manufacturers in improving the business performance of their clients will
become more visible. Rather than just looking at productivity increases, we
will be looking at a manufacturer’s ability to deliver products that the end
consumer desires. Sometimes brands and manufacturers will need to pay suppliers
more to obtain the products that make more money on the shop floor.
“Reducing the risk of disruption in supply
chains will be important in 2024, but I also expect sourcing strategy to
encompass process innovation, creating new and more constructive dynamics in
supply chains, ideally breaking us out of the low price trap.”
American Apparel and Footwear Association
(AAFA) president Lamar highlights: “We are in the midst of a generational
sourcing shift, where brands and retailers are diversifying from traditional
suppliers to build stronger relationships with trusted partners who share their
values. This will continue in 2024.