With much of
fashion’s supply base located in and around Asia and Africa, one of the biggest
concerns is the impact of extreme heat which is escalating as a result of the
climate crisis and impacting factory worker wellbeing.
Workers in the apparel and
textiles industries are considered highly vulnerable to extreme
heat.
Researchers from the Global Labour Studies
Institute at Cornell University suggest that by
2030 workers in Dhaka’s Ready-Made Garment (RMG) factories could face 65
lost working days per year due to heat, and the combination of extreme heat and
flooding could cost the Bangladeshi RMG industry $27bn, and lead to the loss of
255,000 jobs.
Using its member Ethical Apparel Africa
(EAA) as a case study, the ETI has detailed the steps it has taken to mitigate
the risks its workers face from the 40-degree temperatures it commonly sees in
Ghana.
Workers at the Koforidua factory are
represented by worker committees: one for shop-floor workers, one for
middle-managers and one for senior managers. The committees are very active,
including on issues related to ergonomics, health and safety and heat. EAA’s
CEO finds their insights into what is needed and what will work – and what
won’t work – invaluable. One simple recommendation from the worker
committees was to provide a shaded area in the factory grounds to enable
workers to enjoy their break times outside, even during times of high
temperature.
The factory is a metal warehouse structure
with a high ceiling. As such it gets very hot inside, but the size and
height of the unit make air conditioning units ineffective. When EAA
became majority owners, they recognised that other cooling solutions were
needed. Ghana’s electricity grid provides a reliable supply, but costs are
high. Therefore, EAA invested in 160 solar panels to generate their own
electricity (total 211 kWp*). The solar system is on a lease-to-own contract
which costs no more than electricity bills were previously. Generating their
own electricity has been an enabling factor in several other changes.
EAA invested in a heat extraction system.
Fans positioned high up factory walls draw rising hot air out of the factory,
creating an air flow as cooler air from outside is drawn in. At its peak this
system reduces indoor air temperature by 3-4 degrees Celsius. This is a
significant improvement however the system is less effective when outdoor
temperatures are higher. So, in addition EAA repositioned the factory’s
existing fans to make them more effective for workers. Previously fans
were located high in the ceiling, EAA repositioned them to the level of the
buzz bars above workstations, so workers benefit from the air flow.
The factory has a water borehole linked to a
filtration system. Workers have access to cooled water throughout the day
and are encouraged to fill their water bottles at the end of rest breaks and to
keep these with them at their workstations. Although water scarcity is not
an issue locally, access to filtered water is costly, so workers are
encouraged to fill water containers for their home-use.
Annual health checks are offered to all
staff. These are conducted by an in-house nurse working with external
doctors. Health is a very private matter in Ghana and so initially staff were
cautious about taking-up this opportunity. A lot of trust building was
needed, but the initiative is now popular and workers understand the importance
of prevention. With workers’ permission, the health checks have enabled
EAA to identify staff who are more vulnerable to heat and ensure their work is
adjusted appropriately – these include workers with underlying health
conditions or illnesses, as well as pregnancy. Vulnerable workers can be
assigned to lines within the factory’s cooled zone or moved off lines which
involve manipulating heavy bulky items that are harder to lift and move.
By building internal partition walls and an
internal ceiling within the factory, a smaller enclosed area has been created
where temperatures can be further lowered through cooling devices such as
fans. This area is used for the small modular lines which require fewer
workers working on simpler products. During times of high temperature,
vulnerable workers are transferred to this line.
To date, no changes have been made to shift
patterns during periods of extreme heat. This may become advisable in
future, but EAA’s leadership recognises that travelling outside of daylight
hours could increase safety risks for workers, especially women. Their
longer-term ambition is to provide safe, night transport options for all
workers, such as company buses.
The ETI explains that not all the examples
from Koforidua will be relevant to factories in other parts of the world and
solutions will always be highly contextual, however what is common across
locations is the need for social dialogue with workers and their
representatives to understand needs and priorities and to ensure effective
implementation.
“New technologies and adaptations to
business operations will be required in many locations, but without
consultation and engagement with workers we risk unintended consequences
including, potentially, resistance. Ethical Apparel Africa’s approach to mitigating
the impacts of extreme heat on working conditions of its employees illustrates
the value of a worker-centric approach. As our planet warms and risks to
workers from periods of extreme heat become more commonplace and severe,
businesses must take every action to prevent and mitigate impacts on workers in
their supply chains – a worker-centric approach is the only one which will be
effective.”
By Just Style