The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification warns the partial suspension of testing, inspection and certification firm Intertek Testing Services could create issues within the supply chain.

Intertek Testing Services’ partial suspension from GOTS is due to alleged “serious lapses,” however the certification body is keen to highlight its suspension could cause challenges within the value chain, especially to those who are certified by Intertek or for those who have value chain partners certified by Intertek.

The implications for supply chain operators (SCO) include: 

• Service disruption: SCOs who have value chain partners certified by Intertek may face disruptions in their certification and transaction certificate issuance processes, particularly for ginning, spinning and trading lint cotton and grey yarn

• Need for new certifier: While understanding that the suspension is temporary and includes a deadline for the certification body to rectify the situation, SCOs may decide on migrating to another GOTS-approved certification body to ensure continuity in certification services based on their risk assessment

• Migration may be necessary: GOTS says it should also be understood that if the certification body does not satisfy their accreditation bodies and Global Standard’s requirements and if processes are not appropriately reset, the approval status shall be in jeopardy. In such cases, a migration shall be necessary

• Increased scrutiny: SCOs should prepare for increased scrutiny and compliance checks during this period of suspension.

GOTS says the suspension underscores the importance of maintaining high standards and accurate implementation of certification requirements to uphold the integrity of the GOTS programme. 

It continues: “A suspension is not a withdrawal, but rather an opportunity for the certification body to demonstrate positive intent to address any issues within its systems. The primary objective of suspending a certification body is to retain the integrity of the GOTS system and the goods certified under it. This remains our primary aim so that all organisations that use and rely on GOTS can continue to do so. While we regret the inconvenience caused to the supply chain, it is crucial to ensure that confidence in the Standard does not wane.”

GOTS also notes Intertek Testing Services’ suspension is in specific areas of the company’s operations and prohibits the certification body from issuing transaction certificates (TCs) for specific products.

Other transaction certificates are still permitted to be issued with strict risk assessment at their end. Intertek is also prohibited from acquiring any new clients, regardless of scope of operations. 

The renewal of scope certificates (SCs) are permitted as long as the scope does not include ginning, spinning, sale or trade of lint cotton and grey yarn. 

GOTS also says no enhancement of scope certificates shall be permitted during the suspension. 

GOTS claims Intertek was notified of the partial suspension on 25 July 2024 and it will remain in force until Intertek demonstrates full compliance to its contractual and certification obligations.

Intertek has 90 days to report to both Global Standard and its accreditation body (AB) of its findings and actions. 

Key points of suspension:

• Immediate effectiveness: Intertek is suspended from issuing transaction certificates and scope certificates for entities involved in ginning, spinning, sale or trade of lint cotton and grey yarn

• Limited operations: Intertek cannot take on new clients

• Strict monitoring: Intertek may continue issuing transaction certificates for existing clients, with strict risk assessment and responsibility, provided they do not engage in the restricted activities

• Renewals allowed: Intertek can renew expiring scope certificates for existing clients but excluding those involved in restricted activities.

Just Style had not received a comment from Intertek Testing Services at the time of going to press. 

Last week Just Style investigated what it takes to earn the coveted GOTS certification and whether it is worth the effort for fashion brands and retailers.