How can
manufacturers prepare themselves for the incoming EU Textile Strategy? ITMA
outlines three changes they can expect to see.
The EU Textile Strategy,
being developed by the European Commission (EC), forms part of the broader
Green Deal programme of environmental measures aimed at making the 27 countries
within the union completely carbon neutral by 2050.
Under the new rules, textile manufacturers
globally, will see a swathe of changes to the modus operandi.
“In five years from now, textile trading in the EU will be completely transformed as the bloc moves from an open market to a much more demanding one,” observes Dirk Vantyghem, director of the Brussels-based textile and clothing industry body Euratex. “The EU’s Textile Strategy will introduce 16 separate pieces of legislation that companies have to comply with, and this new framework of rules and regulations will see the market move from being based solely on free trade, to free-but-fair trade.”
Under the Green Deal, the EU aims to lead by example and establish a new growth strategy for European textile manufacturers based on a digitalised economy and new rules and standards.
“The EU Textiles Strategy is paving the way for a new type of industry,” says the head of the European Commission’s Unit for Tourism and Textiles (DG GROW), Marie-Helene Pradines. “It is based on the guiding principles of eco-design and an end-of-life producer-financed system, with digital enforcement at the borders of EU member states, completely transparent information to consumers that is free of greenwashing, and the removal of impact from today’s global textile manufacturing supply chain.”
Here are the biggest changes textile manufacturers can expect to see under the new rules as detailed by textile and garment tech exhibition organiser, ITMA.
Social Dimension
In April the EU Parliament passed new
legislation banning the sale, import and export of goods made using forced
labour. Should a product be found to have been manufactured using forced
labour, it will be prohibited from entering the EU market and shipments will be
halted at the borders of member states.
EPR for waste
From January 2025, all post-consumer textile
waste generated in EU member states will have to be separately collected and
sorted and this will be paid for by fees levied on manufacturers via
nationally-set Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes.
The EPR schemes will be based on
‘eco-modulation’, in which the fees are reduced for manufacturers who can
demonstrate either the durability of their products, provide environmental
certifications or incorporate recycled materials into their collections. But
manufacturers are concerned over how the proposed EPR scheme for the EU will
guarantee a level playing field with external competition.
Digital Product Passport
By 2030 all textile products for sale in the
EU will need a digital product passport (DPP) which will most likely take the
form of a scannable QR code or some other tag. DPPs will include information
about a product’s origins, material composition, supply chain, sustainability,
recyclability and possibly much more, gathered from a range of sources.
Pradines previously told
attendees of a webinar that the rules aim to ensure all textiles have an
eco-design.
From design to manufacturing, sustainability
and circularity are the guiding principles,” Pradines explained. She added that
products not built with recyclability in mind should not be sold on the EU
market beyond 2030.
Earlier this year ITMA created a four-part
series of webinars to help manufacturers navigate the challenges and
opportunities of the EU Textile Strategy 2030.
By Just Style