The American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA) has hit out at measures aimed at bolstering government procurement of US-made defence goods, a conversation it says cannot take place until forced labour in US prisons is eliminated.

The House of Representatives has passed the Fiscal Year 2025 National Defense Authorization Act (NDAA) which helps preserve the Berry Amendment supply chain and authorises the Department of Defense (DOD) to take steps to build up the defence textile stockpile and directs DOD to be more transparent and disclose all waivers submitted for the procurement of defence textiles not made in the United States.

According to the National Council of Textile Organisations (NCTO) the move is positive as it requires the Department of Defense to purchase 100% US made textiles and clothing.

NCTO stated the legislation includes two new key provisions important to the domestic textile industry:

1. It authorises the Secretary of Defense to establish pre-positioned stocks of defence textiles needed to support contingency operations while requiring the secretary to develop a plan to mitigate delays in meeting the demand for a ramp up in defence textile articles
2. It increases public transparency for domestic non-availability determinations (DNADS) on an annual basis, while requiring the Under Secretary of Defense for Acquisition and Sustainment to develop and maintain a list of DNADs and share it with Congress and industry.

NCTO president and CEO Kim Glas, said: “This legislation contains provisions that support a strong domestic textile and apparel manufacturing industrial base and aims to expand procurement of American-made defence-related textiles. The Berry Amendment ensures that there is a stable and viable domestic supply chain for these critical defence materials.

“The American textile and apparel industry is a key strategic contributor to our national defence and supplies over 8,000 products a year to our men and women in uniform. US textile mills provide a secure supply chain for the highest quality goods that our armed forces demand, eliminating the need to rely on countries like China for critical military products such as vital uniforms and equipment.

“The US textile industry provides high-tech, functional components for the US government, including more than $1.8bn worth of vital uniforms and equipment for our armed forces annually. It is vital to America’s national security that the US military maintains the ability to source high-quality, innovative textile materials, apparel, and personal equipment from a vibrant US textile industrial base.”

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However, this was at odds with the sentiment being expressed by the American Apparel and Footwear Association, which has long vocalised its concerns surrounding the employment of prisoners to produce US defence apparel.

The organisation previously told Just Style the programme has existed for almost 90 years.

According to the US Department of Justice (DoJ), the programme is part of the Bureau of Prisons’ (BoP) strategy to expand opportunities for occupational training with a focus on ensuring that inmates develop the job skills they need to find work after release from custody. The BoP engages Federal Prison Industries or UNICOR to execute this objective.

But Lamar’s biggest gripe is that it takes business away from hardworking US clothing manufacturers and he’s keen to raise awareness of the matter in the hope steps are taken to level the playing field. That and of course that inmates are “obligated” to work.

“They are not paid a minimum wage and there are a number of other issues that are indicators of forced labour, as per the International Labour Organisation,” he previously told Just Style.

Regarding the latest development, Lamar tells Just Style: “No discussion about strengthening Made in America apparel and footwear – especially for those domestic manufacturers that equip our Armed Forces – can take place without comprehensive efforts that wean the UD Government away from its unhealthy addiction to US federal prison factory system, and its use of forced labour. 

“As long as Federal Prison Industries (which goes by the trade name as UNICOR) has right of first refusal for all military contracts and the ability to win solicitations as a small business, our manufacturing base, our military readiness, and our moral leadership will be at risk.”

By Just Style