The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), managed by the non-profit organisation Global Standard, has been officially recognised in the Recommendations of Specifications, Standards, and Ecolabels for Federal Purchasing by the US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

EPA’s Recommendations have been established to assist federal buyers in identifying and acquiring products and services that are environmentally preferable. These guidelines incorporate over 60 private sector standards and ecolabels across more than 40 categories of procurement.  

The focus is on standards and ecolabels that consider a product’s entire life cycle and its key impact areas, verified by reliable third-party certification programmes. 

The EPA has set forth these recommendations to guide federal agencies in the sustainable procurement of textiles, urging them to favour items with recognised labels such as the GOTS. With an annual budget exceeding $730bn, federal purchasers now possess enhanced capabilities to source products that are better for the climate and uphold environmental and social responsibility. 

Understanding GOTS 

The GOTS represents the foremost standard in textile processing for organic fibres, including environmental criteria, supported by independent certification across all stages of production. Products bearing the GOTS certification can range from raw fibres to yarns, fabrics, apparel, household linens, mattresses, personal care items, and even textiles intended for food contact. 

This standard sets forth criteria for ecological and labour conditions within the supply chain of textiles and apparel made from organically produced materials. Adherence to GOTS aligns with all 17 UN Sustainable Development Goals through active engagement with pertinent stakeholders. 

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The objective of this standard is to establish globally recognised criteria that verify the organic nature of textiles from raw material harvesting through responsible manufacturing processes to final labelling.  

This provides consumers with trustworthy assurances regarding their purchases. Additionally, it enables textile processors and manufacturers to export their organic products internationally with a single certification recognised across major markets. 

Recent EPA Updates 

The EPA has recently revised its Recommendations, marking the first substantial review and expansion of private-sector standards and ecolabels in nearly a decade.  

Five new ecolabels and standards have been added specifically for the product categories, Clothing and Uniforms – Finished Clothing and Clothing and Uniforms – Clothing Textiles/Fabrics, providing buyers with a diverse array of sustainable options. 

They are Nordic Ecolabelling for Textiles, Hides/Skins, and Leather; Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard; OEKO-TEX Made in Green; OEKO-TEX Standard 100; and GOTS. GreenScreen Certified Standard for Furniture and Fabrics has been added for Clothing Textiles/Fabrics category. 

The updates come after EPA announced in August 2023 that it would expand product and service categories within the Recommendations.  

The EPA, in September this year, invited public commentary on proposed updates before finalising them in this latest announcement. 

In response to GOTS’ inclusion, Global Standard said: “Global Standard applauds today’s announcement by the US Environmental Protection Agency to include the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) in its Recommendations of Specifications, Standards and Ecolabels for Federal Purchasing. With this inclusion, GOTS-certified products will now receive clear preference in public tenders.” 

“As a leader in the organic textile industry, GOTS is a dynamic standard with constant progress towards the development of better textile processing methods. GOTS provides rules and tools for fostering responsible business practices and sets strict environmental and social criteria for the entire textile value chain, backed up by independent certification.  

“These criteria include bans of toxic chemicals, wastewater treatment restrictions, energy targets and the protection of human, employment and social rights. Choosing GOTS-labelled goods means choosing a commitment to sustainability and human rights. We ask legislators and policymakers around the world to continue including sustainability in textile procurement.”