Extreme
weather events, trade disputes, geopolitical tensions, increasing regulation
and more complex shipments are expected to impact the global cotton supply
chain in 2025, but traceability and innovation could reinvent the sector.
According to the US
department of agriculture 2024/25 global cotton consumption is forecast at
115.2m bales, which is more than 9m bales below the record level witnessed four
years ago, thanks to more production and consumption of man-made fibres.
Lorena Ruiz, economist at US-based
International Cotton Advisory Committee (ICAC), which unites cotton producing,
consuming, investing and trading countries, tells Just Style the cotton supply
chain should “encounter several significant challenges by 2025,” including
“extreme weather events, such as droughts and floods,” which “are becoming more
frequent, adversely affecting cotton yields and quality”.
Trade disputes and geopolitical issues,
regional conflicts, economic sanctions, and shifts in trade agreements “can
disrupt cotton supply chains, leading to uncertainties in sourcing and
pricing,” Ruiz added. There are also concerns about potential trade tensions
between the US and cotton industry major China once Donald Trump takes office
as he has threatened to impose 60% tariffs on US imports of Chinese
goods.
Ruiz notes regulations are “increasingly
demanding transparency,” and companies must ensure their products are free from
cotton sourced in specific regions. For instance, in 2021, the US banned
imports from China’s Xinjiang region without proof they were not made with
forced labour.
Still, “achieving complete traceability
remains a significant challenge,” she said, explaining nearly 40% of global
cotton production is exported and processed in more than one country, and
“textile mills often source cotton from multiple origins, blending
it”.
Moreover, while certifications might improve
market access or premium pricing, “suppliers often must work with multiple
certification entities” to meet different clients’ needs, and in many cases,
farmers may not be fully aware of the benefits of certification.
Indeed, her colleague Kanwar Usman, ICAC’s
head of textiles, sees a “risk of audit fatigue” in an “already stringent
compliance environment”.
He tells Just Style that, since together the
European Union (EU) and the US “represent the world’s leading import markets,”
their policies are likely to shape the textile industry, and currently the EU
is formulating and implementing 16 regulations and directives pushing
sustainability policies impacting cotton suppliers.
For instance, the Corporate Sustainability
Reporting Directive, which demands large companies and listed companies publish
reports on their social and environmental risks from 2025 onwards, “adds new
layers of complexity” with required information about pollution, water
management, and biodiversity, among other indicators, which means “significant
hurdles” for SMEs, Usman says.
Furthermore, he explains circular economy
models encouraged by EU policies demand “innovative approaches to material
sourcing and production processes,” with costs for the entire value
chain.
While such requirements help to meet
consumer demand and build market competitiveness, he advises “targeted support
for SMEs (…) to ensure industry-wide compliance that does not leave too many
people behind”.
Indeed, according to Dr Keshav Kranthi,
ICAC’s chief scientist, such verification and regulation “can be challenging in
Asia and Africa because the crop is primarily grown by smallholder farmers”.
Globally, smallholders account for more than 99% of production, he
stresses.
US Cotton Trust Protocol, which is a
voluntary sustainability programme and traceability platform, says the proposed
EU green claims directive, which ensures that companies substantiate their
claims, will also “have a significant impact” in 2025. It offers quantifiable
measurements across six key sustainability metrics:
The current demands are “pushing brands and
retailers to rethink their supply chains,” it argues, adding that companies
will also have to respond to “improved time to market efficiencies.” It adds
that to build a “more resilient and responsible cotton industry (…)
collaborative partnerships will be essential.”
There are several key industry initiatives
to boost cooperation. Indeed, the Cotton Trust Protocol helps the sector to be
more collaborative and connected, and has experienced consistent growth with 45
brand and retailer members and 2,500 mill and manufacturer members in 2024. It
notes that sustainable and regenerative farming practices will be key. Despite
the challenges, the Trust Protocol has seen progress against its six key
sustainability metrics, it tells Just Style.
Another solution is forensic technology,
which, according to forensic science and data analysis firm Oritain is “a
transformative solution that’s rapidly becoming the industry standard,” with
fashion brands such as Lacoste and Patagonia using it.
Oritain’s chief commercial officer Rupert
Hodges says forensic science is “leveraging the indisputable chemical makeup of
materials to verify their origins against our map of global cotton” with
real-time data. He adds that brands can test cotton and cotton blends “to
identify potential transshipments [shipments to intermediate destinations],
ensure compliance with global sourcing standards, and more”.
He does warn, however that “transshipments
have emerged as an issue throughout the entire global supply chain”. He
explains manufacturers from what he would call ‘high-risk regions’ – or
sourcing regions prohibited by acts of legislation – are sometimes re-routing
materials through alternate territories.
Hodges expects more investment in
traceability technology in 2025. He stresses that even the US Customs and
Border Protection, which released its first detailed guidance on isotopic
testing in November 2024 to check the unique chemical signature in products,
“encourages importers to take a proactive role” in testing.
He also highlights that increasing
regulation “will require proactivity from brands and an intelligence-driven
approach that takes both economic pragmatism and thorough supply chain tracing
into account.” For 2025, he expects “more focus on cotton as a superior fibre”
and more sustainable options.
Indeed, Dr Kranthi notes “companies are
increasingly exploring regenerative agriculture-based and less water-intensive
solutions for cotton production”.
Singapore-based agri-business company Olam
Agri International is a good example of this as it launched its Global
Regenerative Agriculture Programme in January 2024 to promote traceable and
sustainably grown cotton”.
Over half (55.5%) of global cotton is
produced on rainfed farms without any irrigation, explains Olam Agri, and the
solutions applied include “water harvesting, water conservation, and
water-saving irrigation systems.” Plus, sensor-based precision irrigation and
Internet of Things (IoT) tools can be used to enhance soil moisture retention,
cover crops and improve precision agriculture.
By Just Style