By combining bio-based with recycled synthetics, the industry can accelerate the phase-out of virgin fossil-based fibres, write Emerald Technology Ventures' Michela Puddu and Grey Matter Concepts' Robert Antoshak.

As a significant global polluter and resource user, the textile industry faces growing pressure to adopt sustainable practices. Dominated by synthetics derived from fossil fuels like polyester, the sector’s reliance on these materials has profound environmental consequences, from greenhouse gas emissions to resource depletion.

To counter these impacts, the industry is increasingly exploring bio-synthetics derived from renewable, bio-based feedstocks as a path toward sustainability.

Bio-based alternatives: A promising avenue

The emerging world of bio-synthetics offers materials with properties akin to conventional plastics and, in some cases, unique benefits. Bio-based plastics generally fall into two categories: Direct replacements and alternatives.

Direct replacements, such as bio-based PET and polyamide, are chemically identical to their fossil-based counterparts and integrate easily into current manufacturing and recycling processes.

In contrast, alternatives, such as polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs) and polybutylene succinate (PBS), differ chemically and may require new production and recycling infrastructure.

Currently, bio-based PTT (polytrimethylene terephthalate) is the most widely used bio-based synthetic fibre. At the same time, bio-PET and bio-polyamide remain niche due to cost, limited availability, and sustainability concerns. Alternatives like PLA (polylactic acid), PBS, and PHAs are promising. While PLA has seen some commercial successes, the PBS and PHAs industry is still in its infancy.

Feedstocks: A key to sustainable bio-synthetics

Feedstock selection is crucial in evaluating the sustainability of biosynthetics. While crops like corn and sugarcane are familiar sources, these edible agricultural feedstocks can compete with food supplies and contribute to deforestation. To address this, the industry is investigating alternatives like lignocellulosic plants and agricultural residues.

Yet, these alternatives face challenges — expensive processing and limited scalability hinder their commercial viability. A promising development is also underway to convert greenhouse gases into synthetics.

Opportunities and challenges in bio-synthetics adoption

Bio-synthetics offer the textile industry a route toward reduced fossil fuel reliance, aligning with growing consumer demand for ethical, sustainable products. Unique properties, such as biodegradability and biocompatibility, provide additional appeal. In the EU, regulatory momentum, notably through the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), signals support for these materials.

However, bio-synthetics face obstacles. Technical challenges, such as ensuring consistent quality and durability, pose a hurdle. Bio-based fibres often exhibit variability in composition and performance, necessitating complex, sometimes costly manufacturing processes.

Cost is a key factor — bio-synthetics typically command a premium price due to limited, volatile raw material supply and the need for specialised processing and equipment, requiring significant upfront investments. While often perceived as eco-friendly, bio-based fibres can still have environmental impacts from feedstock management and processing.

Robust LCA data is crucial to substantiate sustainability claims. Additionally, due to the high energy intensity of some processes, renewable energy is essential but might be limited due to availability and competition for energy supply.

The misconception of biodegradability

A common misunderstanding is that all bio-synthetics are biodegradable. While some, like PLA, PBS, and PHAs, degrade under controlled conditions, not all do. Moreover, biodegradability, while valuable, is no silver bullet.

Durable and recyclable materials that integrate with current recycling systems can extend product lifespans, reducing the need for replacements and minimising waste. Bio-synthetics compatible with these streams offer a pragmatic solution toward circularity.

Bio-based versus recycled synthetics

Bio-based and recycled synthetic fibres are essential in pushing for a sustainable textile industry. While recycled synthetics contribute to material circularity, a shift to 100% recycled fibre is challenging due to factors such as limited feedstock and technical challenges.

By combining bio-based with recycled synthetics, the industry can accelerate the phase-out of virgin fossil-based fibres. Identifying optimal recycling strategies for the most prevalent bio-synthetic type will be critical to achieving true circularity.

A bio-based future: What Lies ahead

Depending on the material, biosynthetics offer the potential for reduced carbon footprints, biodegradability, and improved resources use. But, sustainability extends beyond renewable sourcing; production methods, end-of-life applications, and recyclability play crucial roles.

Currently, limited LCA data for bio-synthetics hamper accurate environmental assessments, underscoring the need for standardised impact measurement practices to prevent greenwashing. Furthermore, the industry must close the chain of custody traceability gap to ensure credibility.

Rather than pitting materials against each other, the focus should be context-dependent selection. There’s no “best” material universally, only the best option for a specific application, region, or production method. Furthermore, the shift toward bio-synthetics requires significant investment across R&D, infrastructure, and supply chain management.

Financial incentives, akin to those supporting renewable energy and EVs, alongside regulatory support, could provide the necessary momentum for these next-generation materials.

By adopting a multifaceted approach that considers feedstock, material properties, production methods, end-of-life management, and supportive policies, the textile industry can transition bio-synthetics into a viable cornerstone of sustainability.

By carefully evaluating and tuning the biodegradability, durability, and recyclability of bio-synthetics and integrating them into blends and existing infrastructure, bio-synthetics can advance the industry’s journey toward a circular economy and a reduced carbon footprint — a future rooted in responsible innovation.

Earlier this month, Antoshak told Just Style the US fashion sector will be the biggest loser from Trump’s tariffs.

By Just Style