Anew report outlines the mounting problem of textile waste and microplastics from man-made fibres, but argues the “renewed emphasis” on sustainability and quality will play to the strengths of US cotton production and should prove “supportive to the sector in the longer term”.

The report titled ‘Waste deep: A growing backlash against fast fashion could spell new opportunity for US cotton’ states: “Beginning at the source, we see that fast fashion has transformed the textile-to-landfill pipeline into a fire hose and has made clothing cheaper but also more disposable.”

It adds that there is a strong trading dynamic in used clothing between the global north and south, meaning that much of the disposal happens overseas in countries with infrastructure incapable of handling the immense volumes of waste.

The rise of fashion made from synthetic fibres

The report also points out the emergence of low-priced fast fashion along with the adoption of athleisure has to led to an increase in clothing made from synthetic fibres.

It explains: “These materials break down slowly and contribute to the growing problem of microplastics in the environment.”

The most widely used synthetic fibres – polyester and nylon – are said to account for 60% of global fibre production compared to 22% for cotton.

It notes the growth in detected microplastics over time has closely mirrored the growth in synthetic fibre production.

Report author and Rabobank grains and oilseeds senior analyst Owen Wagner states: “These microplastics from textiles can enter the environment through dumping but also during the production and routine care of synthetic fibre textiles – such as laundering – as well as through conventional waste collection systems.”

Although the full health implications of microplastics to humans and animals are unknown, Wagner highlights that research shows correlations between microplastics in the body and negative health outcomes.

Natural fibres like cotton remain only way to prevent microplastics

Crucially, scientists have developed textile treatments that can slow the shedding of microplastics into the environment, but the use of natural fibres remains the only way to prevent it.

Fashion companies are finding ways to source fibres that are made more responsibly (and humanely) while also promoting circularity within the textile industry.

The report notes these steps not only demonstrate “good corporate citizenship” but they can be good for business as well.

It names US fashion brand Patagonia as a good example of using its responsible apparel manufacturing to its advantage. The company transitioned away from conventional cotton and solely used organic cotton from 1996 onwards. A study conducted in 2009 revealed Patagonia’s consumer base was willing to pay 14% extra for flannel shirts made with organic cotton and in reality the switch to organic materials only increased the costs of goods sold by 10%.

The report warns the higher income levels of Patagonia’s customers means it cannot be generalised to other brands or demographic groups. However, since Patagonia co-founded the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, now known as Cascale with Walmart, it has grown to having over 300 members.

Wagner points out the use of recycled, organic or preferred fibres highlights a key aspect of textiles’ environmental journey but it does leave disposal “largely unanswered”.

He explains that at first glance, reduced consumption equates to reduced overall demand and reduced waste.

However, a defining characteristic of the ESG conversation taking place around cotton and other fibres is it is driven by the fashion industry and consumers.

Wagner suggests this is a “force with much more staying power than the ESG dynamics of grains and oilseeds which rely heavily on biofuels and by extension government policy”.

Opportunities for US cotton in future

He asserts that rather than pushing back against the inevitability of enhanced circularity, the cotton industry has supported it through research and high-profile recycling initiatives: “Going forward, any growth in cotton demand due to pushback against microplastics could be partially offset by enhanced recyclability of cotton in textiles”.

He argues the ESG trends prompting this industry’s self-examination and the technologies enabling enhanced circularity could translate into increased premiums for cotton quality, whether from a performance or sustainability standpoint.

Plus, the fact the US cotton industry performs well on both of these metrics means “the industry’s backlash against hyper-consumption and pollution could very well translate into opportunities for US cotton farmers going forward”.

By Just Style