It is only the beginning of
the 20s decade, and we have already witnessed a pandemic, war in Europe and
major climate events that disrupted economies across the world.
With Covid making a comeback
in China, the shutting down of the city, port and manufacturing units has led
to disruptions in the supply chain yet again. The country is not just
considered a major supplier but also a significant market for apparel brands –
accounting for 22% of global apparel spending currently, according to Hinton.
As a result, she adds, “many retailers have been shifting their production away
from China to places such as Vietnam and India to reduce their risk and
dependence on it.”
Subsequently, we have had the
invasion of Ukraine by Russia which has hit energy, commodity and food prices
globally, particularly in Europe, all of which indicates a tough future for
consumers. Meanwhile, the Organization of the Petroleum Exporting Countries
(OPEC), and other major oil producers are restricting oil supply again which
will push transport costs back up. In the backdrop of everything else, there
have been catastrophic climate crises – floods in Pakistan and Bangladesh,
abnormally high temperatures across the world, including Europe, and widespread
drought and forest fires. All of which is exacerbating the problems.
With a strengthened US dollar
against other currencies and the dollar being the major currency used in
apparel sourcing, it is inevitable that costs and prices will rise in 2023. It
all looks pretty grim, with consumer confidence being recorded at an all-time
low, and inflation at a 40-year high, demand is falling, and a global recession
is on the horizon. In comparison to 2019, share of consumer spending on retail
in 2023 is expected to hit the hardest due to inflation – certainly not a great
start to the new year.
Major themes for apparel in 2023 to 2026
The head of apparel at
GlobaData, Chloe Collins, shared the themes that will have an impact on the
sector over the next two-three years, including inflation and ESG.
Inflation
Consumers across the world are
extremely concerned about their personal finances amid surging inflation,
particularly with respect to how it is impacting their household budgets, with
89.7% of consumers stating they are either extremely or quite concerned about
this in GlobalData’s Q3 2022 global survey. This will inevitably cause shoppers
to cut back on purchasing non-essential items such as fashion to prioritise
necessities like food and energy instead.
Both Europe and North America
are the two regions that have been worst hit by rising inflation. Of the major
European economies, the consumer price inflation (or CPI) in 2022 for the UK
was expected to be the highest at 9.2%.
As retailers overcome the peak
period and consumers grapple with higher energy bills, early 2023 is also
paving way for high inflation. While, a brief look at North America showed an
average inflation at 7.5% in 2022 driven by the US, where higher energy prices
due to the Russia-Ukraine conflict and supply chain issues led to increased
costs.
However, this inflation is
forecast to fall in 2023 with it still being notably higher than it was
pre-pandemic at 3.5%. Price growth will remain higher than pre-pandemic in
2023, at 3.4% and 2.4% in Europe and North America respectively, as energy
prices continue to rise due to the ongoing conflict, and then in the years
following this, growth is expected to gradually return to normal.
Consumers have changed their
lifestyle in response to inflation. For example, more than half of consumers
adjusted their shopping habits, primarily by cutting back on non-essential
fashion purchases, while the remaining consumers that took part in the survey
were only minimally impacted by increased costs. This was either due to having
a discretionary income or because the consumers used money saved during the
pandemic to support their spending.
Image sources:
Business of Fashion, johnlewis.com, Drapers, Retail Gazette, the times
As a result, one prominent
issue that retailers and brands will most likely experience due to this decline
in demand amid inflation is surplus inventory.
Childrenswear is expected to
be one of the main outperformers as well as essential categories like underwear
and sportswear, which are expected to remain resistant to inflation.
In comparison to this, mass
market players are expected to experience a greater impact than premium or
luxury brands; especially those with weak brand identities.
Fast fashion players are also
somewhat falling out of favour, and this is further exacerbated by consumers’
growing concerns about sustainability, points out GlobalData’s apparel analyst
Pippa Stephens.
ESG
ESG mentions reached a peak in
2021, with a large number of brands pledging to achieving carbon neutrality or
complete supply chain mapping in 2025 or 2030. However, the number of mentions
dipped in 2022, though this is more likely due to companies mentioning other
concerns such as inflation, rising production costs, shortages and profit
warnings.
A key focus area in ESG has
been the environment which led to the growth of the resale market partly due to
its affordability, but also because it allows consumers to participate in a
more circular type of consumption, thus reducing their impact on the
environment.
As per GlobalData’s
calculations the global apparel resale market is currently worth US$182bn, up
174% from 2016. This growth is forecasted to accelerate even more, with the
market expected to reach US$338bn by 2026.
The
Gen Z demographic in particular is driving the resale market, although it is
popular with millennials too. The younger Gen Z shoppers don’t yet the same
strong spending power as older consumers, but this makes resale options
attractive to them as it offers an opportunity to purchase clothing for less
while being more environmentally friendly.
Although, GlobalData’s
associate apparel analyst, Louise Deglise-Favre points out: “There will be a
tipping point where Gen Z shoppers will not only say they want brands to have
high ESG credentials and take part in social change, but their actions will
match their words and brands should be prepared for that.” Apart from resale,
other circular models of consumption are growing within the fashion industry, including
rental and repair.
In fact, there is a growing
list of retailers offering repair services and they are encouraging consumers
to get items mended rather than replaced, which again promotes circularity.
While ESG has become a central
topic within the industry, most of the initiatives and reporting from brands is
largely unregulated, although that is set to change in the coming years. Fast
fashion companies are often called out for greenwashing and typically have
lower ESG credentials as their business models promote over-consumption due to
the constant release of new products, which undeniably leads to high levels of
waste. For this reason, countries are looking to hold fashion businesses
accountable to higher ESG standards and regulate their reporting and claims
around the topic.
For instance, the Germany due
diligence act which comes into effect this month (January 2023) aims to ensure
no human rights are violated within the supply chains of businesses operating
in Germany.
“These regulations,” Deglise-Favre
explains, “all aim to bring more transparency surrounding supply-chains and ESG
reporting.” By Just Style