AECE The Apparel Export Council of Egypt
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation has published a new report that reveals it is possible for fashion and apparel brands to make jeans fit for today’s circular economy.
‘The Jeans Redesign: Insights from the first two years’ reveals the barriers, solutions and innovation gaps faced by the 72 brands, retailers, garment manufacturers, fabric mills and laundries signed up to The Jeans Redesign’s common guidelines and definitions.
Launched in 2019, the Jeans Redesign programme includes guidelines developed by the Foundation’s Make Fashion Circular team alongside denim experts, and adheres to the principles of a circular economy where clothes are made with limited impact, are recyclable and are long-lasting to be kept in use.
To date, 80% of participants have put more than half a million pairs of circular jeans on the market, meeting minimum requirements for durability, traceability, and recyclability, while using safe materials and processes, with investments to the tune of US$14.5m made to create fabric and jeans in line with guidelines.
While the number of redesigned jeans remains a fraction of the industry total, report authors state The Jeans Redesign is a demonstration that it is possible to create garments fit for a circular economy today.
The milestone has been achieved through collaboration, both across the value chain and within organisations, building knowledge and capacity.
In addition, some brands are also piloting new models for products to be accessed. Mud Jeans is for example, offering rental while others are exploring new production processes, such as Unspun’s ‘made-to-order’ model.
The report outlines the toughest requirements for participants to meet, with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation hoping insights from the publication will lead to more individuals and brands wanting to make a difference.
The toughest requirements included:
- Identifying and sourcing cellulose-based fibres produced in nature positive ways. Hardware solutions that prohibit conventional electroplating – a technique that generates hazardous waste.
- Zippers that can be removed and reused or recycled without losing fabric.
- Limiting non-cellulose based fibres to 2% or less to ensure recyclability, while still delivering styles and comfort that appeals to customers (including jeans with stretch).
“The Jeans Redesign supports organisations to build the confidence to explore and learn about how to use circular economy principles to put products on the market. The collective challenges and solutions identified made it clear where investment and innovation are needed,” says Laura Balmond, Make Fashion Circular lead, at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
“The Jeans Redesign demonstrates it is possible to create garments fit for a circular economy and now the concept has been proven, there’s no reason to delay progress. We call on industry and government to build on this growing momentum to rapidly transition to a circular economy for fashion at scale.”
To build on the momentum of The Jeans Redesign, the Ellen MacArthur Foundation calls on:
- All businesses in the fashion industry to take bold action to adopt circular economy principles today
- All businesses – including collectors, sorters, and recyclers to collaborate and innovate to overcome barriers to a circular economy for fashion
- All businesses and policymakers to align on definitions and parameters for regenerative production and sourcing, and put in place enabling mechanisms to support the production of materials that have nature-positive outcomes
- Policymakers to create the enabling conditions for the circular economy to emerge at scale in the fashion industry, building on a set of common policy goals
A number of participating brands and retailers have unveiled products in line with the guidelines, most recently Tommy Hilfiger and American Eagle Outfitters.
By Just Style